Men’s Fashion: Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know

Fashion Rehab, Features, Men's Fashion

Hello Dearies!

Happy belated Mashujaa Day!  So it’s back to work and to class for most of you guys after a long weekend; hopefully you’re not hangover from the fun or NAH! Today’s post is dedicated to the Men out there and it’s all about suits. We’re adults and sometimes we’ve got to look the part. You can’t expect to look all dapper and gentlemanly without knowing Suiting 101.  I love seeing a man in a well tailored and fitted suit and honestly, I haven’t seen a lot of them. Society has been plagued with what i refer to as the ‘Pastor’s Suit’. No offense to the men of the word but have you seen the suits most of them wear?! It’s Preposterous!! A good suit doesn’t have to be expensive you guys, wearing the right fit makes it look expensive. Looking shabby is not a Fashion statement. For those times when sweats, t shirts and sneakers are not appropriate, you’ve got to suit up. But don’t you worry…I’m here to help! I’ve been doing A LOT of research on suits and I’ve come across rules that every guy should know and consider when wearing or buying a suit.  Here’s What Every Guy Should Know…

The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.

When selecting a lapel, you also need to keep your tie preferences in mind. The width of your tie should match the width of your lapel. Narrow tie kinda guy? Don’t peak (Read below on the types of lapels).

In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, Mad Men style.


A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn’t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.


Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.

Your jacket should sit flat across your chest and shoulders.

How do you know if it’s pulling across your chest? The fabric will make an X shape across your abdomen. And across your shoulders? Cross your arms and see if it pulls.
If a jacket isn’t fitted to your shape, the bottom will flare out giving you the appearance of “hips”.
That said, the slimmer the fit through the torso, the broader your shoulders will appear. Getting it right is a fine line — best left to the masters/Italians.

When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.


A perfectly tailored suit will hug your shoulders. The shoulder line should always be straight and the shoulder seam should lie on the edge of your shoulder. Tailored well, your suit will have no marked wrinkles or divots across the shoulder when your arms are by your side.

A collar gap between your jacket’s lapels and your shirt’s collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.


Your jacket doesn’t fit. Make a beeline for a tailor. Do not pass GO. Your jacket and shirt collar should be in contact all the way around — even at the back. A perfectly fitted jacket will show about 1-2cm of shirt collar, in proportion with your cuffs and width of tie.

What about pockets? Another minefield…

Ask your tailor to recommend which pocket pairs back best with your physique. To be safe, choose flap pockets with a ticket pocket for extra marks.

Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless you’re attending a funeral.


Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colors.

Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color as your shoes.


You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:

enhanced-buzz-969-1388440300-0Black, Dark grey, Light grey and Navy suits go with black dress shoes while Brown, Dark grey and Navy suits go with Brown dress shoes.

Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.


This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do that effortlessly casual “hand in pocket” thing.

For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.


If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.


Dabbling with a double-breast jacket? Tailors know best…


While the classic double-breast jacket has come back into the spotlight, it’s important to note they don’t suit everyone. It all comes down to genes. The double-breast brings a sense of power, and screams masculinity. But if it’s not perfectly fitted, it’s not a very forgiving cut! Check with your tailor. Or Clayton. He’ll tell you the truth!

You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.


Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.


The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.


Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full windsor.

enhanced-buzz-4518-1388431677-52BIG HEAD = FULL KNOT. SMALL HEAD = HALF KNOT. If you’re not sure how your head size compares, ask one of your male friends. They should be able to give you an objective opinion.

If you’re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.


There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.


A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so it’s actually visible). if you’re going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.

Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.


For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.

The pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.


This rule of thumb is a more modern take on suiting. But for a more conservative look, it’s acceptable for the pants to cover the top of the shoe and part of the laces.

Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down.


No one needs to see your hairy gams.

Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.


The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.


With your arms at your sides, your jacket sleeves should cover the wrist bone. A suit jacket’s length — like a good lawyer — should cover your ass. But if you can’t cup your hands under the hem of your jacket it’s too long.

Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.


For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.


If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.


Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesn’t peek through. Nothing will cheapen the appearance of a suit more than a glimpse of undershirt.

Finally, go for the dimple.


Pictures and Info courtesy of and

I hope this post helps transform you from Eddie Murphy at the beginning of Trading Places to Eddie Murphy at the end of Trading Places.

Follow us on Instagram @kaytween and @karolmaina and on our Facebook Page @ The Fashion Rehab and Twitter @imAkay47 and @DZAMN.

Stay Dapper!!



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